Friday, November 25, 2011

King Size Headboard Plans - Part I

Plans for King Size, 3-Panel Upholstered Headboard

Please don't mind my un-centered artwork...
 Sorry that this post lacks a number of 'before' shots-we didn't get the camera out until the wood frame was completed Oops!....instructions are supplemented with example pictures....we'll do better next time....
Overall Dimensions 78”x36”x3/4” (2 ½” including upholstered sections) for a king size headboard

Experience Level: Intermediate

  Project sketch: (king size)

Required Material: Total Project List

·         1 -  4’x8’ sheet of  1/4” birch plywood.  You could use any type of plywood, but using birch, Baltic birch, or other hardwood plywood will provide a much more stable media (it won’t warp over time)
·         8 board feet of ¾” hardwood, I used Ash (this means that you usually have to purchase 4/4 hardwood which ends up being about ¾”)
·         12 square feet of 2” foam
·         15 square feet of batting
·         100  -  3/8” staples
·         15 square feet of upholstery
·         80 grit, 120 grit and 220 grit sandpaper
·         Spray on Foam Adhesive
·         12  -  1” wood screws
·         2  -  French Cleat Picture Hangers (200 lb capacity, works like a charm)
French Pleat Hangers
                 1.       Cut Wood

simulation only
a.       Cut  hardwood to desired sizes
                                                               i.      I used a tongue and groove technique for assembling the frame.  If you do this, then you will need to add the appropriate length to your pieces.  For my router, this requires an additional 7/16” for each side, or 7/8” overall.  Making the vertical members 27 7/8”.
b.      Cut Backing panels out of plywood
                                                               i.      Again, when using a tongue and groove technique, I added 7/16” to each dimension.  This resulted in overall dimensions of 21 7/8” x 27 7/8”
c.       Cut Upholstery panels out of plywood (wood that will be under the leather inserts later)
                                                               i.      The opening will be 21” x 27”, but if you make your panel that big, it won’t fit in with the additional thickness of your batting and upholstery.  You will need to reduce the size depending on the thickness of your material.  I used leather, and reduced my size by ¼”, resulting in 20 ¾” x 26 ¾”.

                 2.       Tongue and groove

tongue and groove example
a.       Set your tongue and groove thickness to be the same width as your plywood.  The end result will be that your plywood backing panels slip nicely into the groove, without additional modification.  Groove/Tongue should be set in the center of your 3/4” hardwood.
b.      Cut grooves on one long side of the long horizontal members (piece)
c.       Cut grooves on one long side of the 4.5” vertical members
d.      Cut grooves on both long sides of the 3” vertical members
e.      Cut tongues on both short sides of all vertical members
f.        Piece together without glue to ensure that your measurements and cutting was accurate
                 3.       Assemble Hardwood frame and backing panels
for example only-your favorite wood glue will work
a.       Apply glue to the tongues, and the area that the tongues will meet up with their appropriate grooves (DO NOT glue the plywood in, the whole point is to have a floating panel that will allow for expansion and contraction over time and not break)
b.      Assemble from one end to the other and use long pipe clamps to hold in place until dry
                 4.       Prepare frame for stain/finish
a.       Use a small finishing router bit to give the desired edge.  My preference is a 1/16” roundover bit.  This should be done to all facing edges. (if you don’t have a router, then just sand the edges so that they aren’t sharp.
b.      Sand face until there is a smooth surface (I usually sand with 80 grit, then 120, then 220)
c.       Remove dust with a rag, or vacuum

                 5.       Stain / finish
a.       Apply desired stain (I used a Cherry stain, allowing the stain to sit on the wood for a few minutes before wiping it off so that it wasn’t quite as dark)
b.      Finish with Urethane or other appropriate finish (I just used a rub on urethane and put on 3 coats, sanding lightly with 220 grit sandpaper between coats)

Your wood frame is complete!
Right panel is finished wood frame (part I)-Left panel is leather upholstered insert (part II)

That completes the wood assembly of the Headboard.

Want more?
Part II: instruction on the leather upholstered inserts
Part III: insert panel attachment and hanging headboard

Thanks for reading Apples By Ashley {How Do You Like Them Apples?}

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  1. visiting from somewhat simple.. great headboard and tutorial! I need an awesome headboard like this one :) I would love for you to share this at my Friday link party going on now.. on and enter my TinyPrints giveaway too!

  2. You made that? Wow - impressive! You should come and enter my Vanilla Bean Paste giveaway


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